No announcement yet.

Lou Andrews Aeromaster Too, from AAMCO kit, built for electric ...

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    I've cut the film away from the lodgings for the aileron servos and screwed in the servo plates...

    The film was cut diagonally, then trimmed with scissors. What was left was stuck down using this dinky little hot iron, which I found on t'ebay in the dress-making section..! Low power, no temperature control, but for rapid intricate detail stuff it does a fine job. Very low cost, and supplied with two 'feet'; this is the smaller of the two. Small enough to tuck under the skinning to stick the film on the underside of the sheeting, in some cases..! Well pleased, as it made a tricky task quite neat and tidy.
    One could also note the 3D-printed cover plates that I've prepared, which I'll probably stick on with double-sided tape, at least at first, once the linkages have been proven. Just an experiment, but they might protect the servo arms a bit.
    I'd passed the wiring through the wing beforehand, of course (apparently one shouldn't forget to do this..!), and tied a length of cord to the cables. Once the upper surface of the lower wing was pierced, the outlet holes are revealed. Again, the dinky little iron did well to seal down the edges of the film, and a pair of tweezers fished out the threads...

    These plugs will pass up, through the underbelly of the 'plane, to the Rx above.
    It's been checked before, but just to be sure, I've connected up my servo tester and confirmed correct operation of the servos; we can see that the servos move in opposite directions, as expected...

    I have left myself the possibility of having independant servo control at a later stage, but for the moment, a common command will suit my purposes, I think. Refinements of the sort can come later, after any successful test flights. Keep It Simple will do for now.
    I may get the ailerons attached this evening, if I can drum up some extra hands (and head..?) to hold everything in place. All of these filmed surfaces are now very slippery for these old insensitive fingers, and this will be a 'first' for me, using my laminating film as a full-width iron-on hinge. I've read a few accounts, and watch some videos, but doing it on one's own 'plane is, I'll admit, still a bit (no; a lot..!) scary. It has to be done sooner or later, though, so maybe later on today, if I feel up to it. We'll see...


      That small iron was my best friend for many years sticking down many varieties of model covering............and I use it and its big brothers for temporary tacking heat press vinyl to small cloth items ........except I don't have pink ones........gosh...........sigh.




          Plucking up courage, and assisted by Our Eldest, the ailerons have been film-hinged to the lower wing, first one ...

          ... then t'other ...

          It went off rather well, and all the better for having four hands. The film is transparent, but they're still visible when close up. There are the inevitable bubbles (the larger ones were pricked out, of course, but one can't do 'em all...), which show up more against the Transparent Orange than the White. Pleased enough, just the same. I'll have a go at installing the control horns and connecting 'em up tomorrow, probably. Another giant leap achieved..!


            Ailerons are now hooked up and tested ...

            They work as expected, throws will be finely adjusted under the auspices of more experienced Club members when we get closer to Maiden Day.
            On a roll, at the moment, so I continued, again assisted by Our Eldest, using the same brass curtain hooks (see Kirby thread for details...) to confection soldered wheel collars for the Aeromaster. Once again, the secret is in the cleaning, use of flux and a decent iron. Given these conditions, it was only a matter of seconds to attach the wheels; they're unlikely to come off on their own ...

            A bit tired, so some relaxation, in the form of applying Humbrol Gloss White to a few exposed parts, to clean up the general appearance (and protect the wood, of course...)...

            I've the cockpit to sort out (how to install a pilot, maybe a dashboard of sorts, a windshield, perhaps even some edge combing...), order a couple of suitable props 'I've 9's and 10's but only vintage-style wooden ones in 13 size...), and receive Rx's, ordered a while back. I have Rx's for my Turnigy 9x, but have since adopted the FrSky 'DJT' module, so as to be able to have Diversity Rx's. I have one already, installed in the Bixler; i'll be more confident in the range of the FrSky Rx's, but am waiting on delivery.
            I've also a stabiliser unit, currently in the Bixler too, which I will probably use, but I think the maiden flight will be with just a standard Rx, so as not to complicate things and cloud any issues.
            Next steps..? Once I have a Rx installed (either received or 'stolen' from the Bixler...) I can do a full-house test, and give the motor a run with the watt-meter, to see how it fares. It's a Turnigy AeroDrive SK4240-750, so should be able to turn a quite large prop. On paper, there's enough power; I've not yet weighed the whole ship; I'll do that this evening. For now, it's dinner time, and a bit of a rest.


            • Mike White
              Mike White commented
              Editing a comment
              Looks like the result of a very heavy landing. Pull Up ! Pull Up !

            I've just weighed her, and got this...

            Weight = 2390 gr

            Fuselage 1140
            Upper wing 290
            Lower wing 390
            Sundries (U/C, Lipo, hatches, rubber bands, wooden prop...) 570

            There only remains the pilot (30 gr..?) and the Rx (about the same..?), so I'd be safe in saying she'll be just under 2.5 kg; that's 5½ lb in old money. Is that reasonable for this 'plane..?

            Did I mention pilots..? Here he is, freshly extruded (that sounds more rude than it actually is...), taking his first taste of joys to come. Why blue..? It's a reel of filament that's already open, so... The original file was downloaded from Thingyverse (thanks, ianicolo...); I've scaled him up to fit the 'plane, and hollowed him out, with a wall thickness of 1.5mm. It took 3½ hours to print in Draft mode...

            And here he is again, with a first coat of many colours (well, brown, really...)...

            Tomorrow, a windshield. I have a full canopy, but I think I prefer the 'old school', 'open to the elements' aspect with 'planes of the sort. Onward and upward.
            Last edited by Dad3353; 04-14-2019, 12:25 AM.


              No windshield yet; I have been diverted with other minute details. The pilot needs a floor beneath him, and a bit more detailed painting. I thought of making a tiny leather-ish headrest, but found a better solution, again 3D-printed from Thingiverse. That, too, needs painting. Then the idea of a dashboard got me searching t'web for models. There are 3D ones to print, but I decided that a 2D-printed one would do the job, so cut out a suitable rounded sheet, printed a dashboard onto sticky-back paper and cut it to shape. Here's a view of the 'kit' being processed ...

              ... and an over-the-shoulder view of the result so far...

              The seat will get another coat or two, but it's getting close enough to closure. Tomorrow then, maybe, for the windscreen..?


              • COCHISE99
                COCHISE99 commented
                Editing a comment
                That is looking real good............3D printed exhaust manifold??

              No, this is not endurance training, nor gratuitous photos, just to show off my lump hammer; it's a way of keeping the pilot and his seat firmly held in place whilst the Gorilla Glue does its work...

              I've drilled 3mm holes through the base of these pieces, and equally through the balsa baseplate. I poked glue through these holes, and spread a thin film on to the bases. I'm thinking that the glue will foam and expand through the holes, and key the pieces together. The weighting is to encourage the glue to pop through the holes rather than lift the pilot or seat. It seems to have worked, as I can now lift the 'plane using the pilot..!
              On to the windsceen, at last. A carbon tracing is made from the template kindly furnished on the plan, and a gash piece of packaging plastic sacrificed for the cause. I've painted 'rivet' dots onto the inside of the windscreen...

              ... then, when dry, masked the lower edge and applied black paint ...

              The windscreen will be pinned to the hatch, with a tiny bead of silicone to seal it down. I've a shower cabin to re-caulk, and m awaiting for delivery of a tube of silicone for that; I'm sure there'll be enough for this little task as well. Maybe tomorrow..?


                Still waiting for the silicone, so I've tried covering the nose motor hatch, using a method of filming over a curve picked up on another Forum. It's not evident from the photos (explanations offered elsewhere on the Forum...), but I must say that I'm impressed by the efficiency of the tip, which gave a superb result (well, superb for me, at any rate..!), with hardly a crease or fold at all. Here's the piece ...

                ... and again, in its place on the nose ...

                T'will be stuck on with the silicone, when it arrives.
                Yes, I've chosen a radial engine for powering the 'plane; it's simply hung on for now, but will also be 'siliconed' in due course.


                • Mike White
                  Mike White commented
                  Editing a comment
                  The top image reminds me of occasions when my flight instructor tried to get something through to me and had to use his hammer....!

                The HK site does list 13x7 electric props, but neglect to indicate the motor shaft size. My wooden prop has the correct 8mm hole, but what about these HK ones, eh..? Handily, the 'Live Chat' pop-up comes up, so I engage conversation with the bloke, asking for precision concerning shaft diameter. After a shortish pause, he can't say, but assures me that, given the size of these props, it would be hard to imagine that they'd be any smaller; if anything, they'd be bigger, with an adapter for 8mm. 99% chance they'd be suitable. Excellent..! I ordered some (six; one can't have too many spare props, and I've other 'planes that will want the same size...). They arrived this morning, with their 6mm shaft hole. D'oh..!

                I've not got a reamer, so I drilled one out with, progreesively, a 6.5, 7, 7.5 then 8 mm drill; it now fits, at least, the motor shaft...

                I'll check the motor later with the prop on, but spin it up slowly, looking for any signs of vibration or un-balance. Fingers crossed...


                • Mike White
                  Mike White commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Hi, Dad. I sold an Aeromaster Too kit last year on e-bay. Perhaps this is yours? What a coincidence if it is! Some info, if needed. At the weight of the model (which is on the button) you will need 100 watts per pound of model, ready to fly. So, 550 watts is needed. I usually go for 125 watts per pound but that will be a little over the top for the Aeromaster. For info = If this is the kit `I sold it dates from 1976 when bought.
                  It looks as though you have done a nice job so ~ I hope that it flies well.
                  I have a couple of these kits still to be flown and , one day, insh'Allah,I will do another (first one built in Bahrain in 1976 and nylon/dope finish.) but will put in a 4 stroke petrol motor.
                  Did you build the short wing version or the longer wing?
                  For more info. I have done the drawings for a 78 inch version but it is, as yet, unbuilt!!!
                  Good luck with the first flight, Dad.

                The graphics were sent to your email yesterday....I think they are properly sized to your request.


                • Mike White
                  Mike White commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Dad. I did notice that the flight battery is in a battery holder. May I suggest that this may not be the best way to go as vibration (even with an electric motor) could dislodge one of the cells. It is considered best practice to use a made up battery pack with soldered connections. Maybe you are using a BEC though with the Li-po...........

                Mike White ...

                Thanks for your kind comments; they're always welcome. Was this your kit..? No, this was bought from a fellow member of another forum, late 2017, in very stressful circumstances; you'd have remembered if it had been yours..!
                Yes, I've built the 'Too' version, with both wings swept, The motor I'm using is rated at 750w, so I think it'll get her off the ground, at least. I'm not an experienced pilot (in fact, I've yet to fly successfully any 'plane at all..!), so she'll have her maiden flight under the thumbs of our model club 'test pilot', Jérome. I'll only take the sticks once I've progressed through my trainer 'planes and simulator, and even then, only for pottering about the sky. I doubt I'll ever be any good at (intentional...) aerobatics. I'm in no hurry; I enjoy building.
                I think (I hope...) that you're mistaken concerning the battery pack. That's a pack that I use for testing and setting up servos, not for flight. The Lipo I'll be using (4S, 3000 Mah...) has been flown in my Scorpio Basic 2000, and will be housed in the Aeromaster under the 'floor',, in the space above the lower wing. I do have a seperate BEC, but have not installed it in this 'plane. I shall if the maiden and set-up flights show any real advantage in doing so.
                A 78" version would be a sight to see in the skies..!


                  Howdy DAD.the graphics are cut and in the shipping envelope.......I missed the mail today so they will travel in the AM...Ken


                  • Dad3353
                    Dad3353 commented
                    Editing a comment

                  All conditions united, stars aligned, runes in accord, the time is right. A full-on dress rehearsal, on the bench, with the 'plane tethered, but raring to go. A new Rx, freshly bound, a full Lipo (4S, 3000 Mah...), a few checks without the prop, then with, to see what's watt. No prop..? No problem, runs at 16w or so. With the prop (and with two of us holding the 'plane still...) a pretty decent 500w. Gently at first, but then a whole minute or so at full throttle whilst I checked the temperature of the ESC. It rose from 14°C to 22°C in that time, which seems pretty reasonable to me. I can't get to the motor with my laser temp thingy, but I reckon it'll be just fine. No vibration, no funny noises, just a hefty 'Whirr'. At 16v, and if the 750Kv is correct, that gives an rpm of around 12000. She was really pulling on the belt, ready to leap into the air, despite not having her wings fitted..! ...

                  More final checks to do. The dominos used at the servo arms, for instance, don't inspire me for a 'plane of this size, so I'm changing them for aluminium clevises. Much more positive, and far superior gripping to both the arms and the cables. I've a set of graphics in the post to me, which will give the final touches to her looks, and then it's up to the weather, availability of my Club Test Pilot and, of course, my own health, to see about giving her her head and seeing if her performance matches her looks. Soon, I'd say, soon...


                    I've decided that my Aeromaster is to be officially declared finished, pending Maiden flight, and any trims or mod that may result (or, of course, the dreaded dustpan and brush..!). We had a fine spell of sunshine this morning, so I spent twenty minutes sweeping the 'taxi-way' before our cottage (messy things, tractors...), and took a few photos before having a short 'rolling under her own steam' trial. Here's the (slightly edited...) video; enjoy ...