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Aeronca Model L

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    #31
    Finishing the Wing.

    1, 2) Before joining The outer wing panels to the center section, the tunnel for the servo extensions is cut from the upper surface at the center to a point aligning with the channel in the outer panel.

    3) 1/4" balsa plates were added to the ends of both the center section and the inner edge of the outer panel. These are then sanded to get the top line of the wing absolutely straight from center to the end ofthe wing. Once alignment is assured, The panels are eproxied to the center section.

    4) Profiles of the Wingtip are cut from 1/4" balsa and glued to a piece of 1/16" sheet.

    5) These are then separated and glued to the tips of the wing. The plate is then sanded to match the airfoil of the wing

    6) Triangular braces of 1/4" balsa are then added, top & bottom.

    7, 8) Blocks are then added to the leading edge of the tips. This is sanded to match the Wing and the edges of the tip sanded, round on the tip and matching the wing at the rear.

    9, 10) At this point the three joints in the doing are fiberglassed. As this model will be electric I used Valspar spar urethane varnish. I used a layer of 2 oz. cloth on the balsa, with a layer of 1/2 oz. cloth to protect the heavier cloth during sanding.

    11, 12) To simulate the built up wing of the full-size and original model, I am using false ribs. First, a layer of 1/16" balsa is laminated over the places that are sheeted on the built up wing. It worked best to CA the sheet to the LE then bend it rearward , using household ammonia to soften the wood.

    13) Rib spacing is marked with a divider and strips of 1/16" balsa are attached , to simulate ribs.

    14) Completed. The weights are holding center sheeting down while the ammonia dried.

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      #32
      Empanage:

      Looking at the full scale aircraft, the Stab & elevator are flat and the vertical stab & rudder are tapered.

      1, 2) As the stab/elevator are flat, they were constructed straight over the plans.

      (No Pics) To do the rudder & vertical stab, I cut a profile out of 3/32" balsa. A tapered tail post was applied to each side and pieces of 3/32" balsa were applied to simulate ribs. These were then sanded down to an aerodynamic shape.

      Hinge slots were cut using Dubro's hinge slotting tool. Hint: This tool is for more effective if you cut the slots before you bevel the edge to allow for movement. It lies flatter that way!
      Last edited by JVESPER11; 01-28-2020, 03:41 AM.

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        #33
        Main gear

        1) The gear and brace are bent to match the plans.

        2) I built a jig, of 3/4" ply, to maintain proper alignment during soldering. The junction was tightly wrapped with steel wire , adjusted to proper height and soldered.

        3) The completed gear

        4) Mounting blocks Were created. A 1/4" ply base, with a pair of locators made of 1/8" ply to create the grooves.

        5) On the mounting plates.

        6) Dubro Tailwheel mounted.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by JVESPER11; 02-19-2020, 02:50 AM.

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          #34
          Creating the Ailerons:

          1) In preparation for the ailerons the center section and wing panel joints are fibre-glassed. As the plane will be electric, fuel- proofing is not an issue. Therefore, I used Valspar Methane spar varnish to adhere the glass.

          2) Aileron cuts are marked, with allowances for 1/4" balsa linings on the cut out and the front of the aileron.

          3) The aileron is now cut out along the middle line, denoting the final shape of the aileron.

          4) Each end ofthe aileron is marked and cut back 1/16"

          5) A piece of 1/16" balsa is cut large enough to cover each end of the aileron. Note that the front of the aileron has been cut back 1/4" at the top and bevelled rearward towards the bottom.

          6) These pieces are adhered to the aileron and sanded to match the front of the aileron and the height of the raised false ribs.

          7) A piece of 1/4" balsa is cut to fully cover the front, adhered to the aileron and sanded to match the height of the false ribs and other contours of the aileron.

          8) 3/8" holes are drilled (carefully!) through the center point of the bottom ofthe aileron leading edge, perpendicular to the top of the aileron. These will serve as anchors for the control horns.

          9) A piece of 1/4" balsa is cut to length and adhered to the front of the aileron opening , after the front of the opening is cut back the extra 1/4" that was originally marked. This isthen shaped to the bottom of the wing and the false ribs on top.

          10) A piece of 1/16" scrap is cut and adhered tothe ends of the opening. This is then sanded to the bottom of the wing and the height of the false ribs.

          11) The hinge line is on the upper wing surface so the hinges are angled down into the 1/4" balsa.

          12) Dry assembled and sanded to achieve a smooth movement.

          Comment


            #35
            Placing the landing gear blocks:

            1) The previously constructed L G blocks are traced on the wings lower surface, and the sheeting cut out.

            2) The wing joining pieces are relieved to allow proper placement.

            3) It should be tight dry fit

            4) Before installation, the openings for the aileron servos are cut out. I prefer the servos to be inboard of the pushrod. Note also that, for simplicity, I just set the servo vertically into the wing.

            5) I use a piece of flexible pushrod to fish the servo leads through the wing.

            6) Exiting at the wing center.

            7) This won't work! If I epoxy the rear block in, now I won't be able to pass the servo lead, later so...

            8) I used a section of 5/8" shrink tubing as a conduit. It's flexible enough too allow it's being slid into the channel and firm enough to remain open after the block is installed.

            9) A mixture of epoxy & micro balloons is used as bedding. Use lots and scrape /wipe away anything that oozes out. I used lead weights to hold the blocks in place while the epoxy cures.

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